Новости

Earthsight’s year-long investigation exposes ZARA and H&M's dirty secrets

ВШБ МГУ
Alright folks, buckle up because we've got some juicy dirt on ZARA and H&M that's gonna make your jaw drop. Earthsight a non-profit investigative organization, just wrapped up a year-long investigation called “Fashion Crimes”, and let's just say these fast fashion giants have some skeletons in their closet.
The bombshell? Turns out ZARA and H&M have been using cotton sourced from Brazil regions
where land grabbing, illegal deforestation, violence, human rights violations, and good old-fashioned
corruption are prevalent. Yikes! These companies pride themselves on being sustainable and socially
responsible, but this report blows that clean image right out of the water.

First off, we've got land grabbing on the menu. Local farmers and indigenous peoples have been
forcibly displaced from their ancestral lands, often with the use of violence and intimidation. The
report alleges that these land grabs were often facilitated by corrupt local officials and armed groups.

The investigation also uncovers evidence of human rights abuses, including the exploitation of child
labor and the subjugation of workers under harsh, unsafe conditions. These revelations directly
contradict ZARA and H&M's public commitments to ethical sourcing and fair labor practices,
exposing the company's greenwashing efforts and the hollowness of its sustainability rhetoric.

But wait, there's more. The report links fast fashion brands cotton supply chain to specific regions
where deforestation has accelerated at an alarming rate, further exacerbating the climate crisis. H&M
and ZARA have two suppliers of Brazilian cotton – SLC Agrícola and the Horita Group. In 2020 SLC
Agrícola was one of the top deforesters of Cerrado region. Similarly, the Horita Group has come under
fire for its role in illegal deforestation, particularly in the Amazon rainforest. As forests are being
chopped down to make room for more cotton plantations, biodiversity suffers immensely. The Cerrado
and Amazon are home to a vast array of plant and animal species, many of which are found nowhere
else on Earth. With each hectare of forest lost, countless species are pushed closer to extinction,
disrupting delicate ecosystems and threatening the balance of life.

Now, you might be thinking: "But ZARA and H&M are all about being sustainable and socially
responsible!" Well, my friends, it seems like that's just a whole lot of greenwashing and PR spin.
These companies have been turning a blind eye to the horrific practices of their suppliers, all in the
name of boosting their bottom line.

H&M Group hasn't released any official comments – although the news about the Earthsight
investigation has been all over the media. In response to inquiries from Earthrights, the fashion house
has referred to Better Cotton, attempting to blame its public relations failure on an ineffective
certification system. ZARA in response claimed “Brazilian cotton - certified by Better Cotton- is not
the main one for them, representing between 5 and 25% of their total cotton purchase.” and also
demanded clarity from cotton certifier.

At this point we find out that the cotton was linked to land rights violations and environmental
standards was actually certified as "best cotton" by Better Cotton! For reference, that company Better
Cotton says their mission is “to help cotton farmers survive and thrive, while also protecting and
restoring the environment”. Something's not adding up, right?

Both fashion brands have pledged to improve their supply chain transparency and adopt more
sustainable sourcing practices. However, critics argue that the commitments fall short of addressing
the root causes of illegal deforestation and fail to hold the companies accountable for their past actions.

Further measures. To address these issues, both governments and corporations are urged to take action.
The Better Cotton Initiative should conduct a thorough investigation of Earthsight's allegations and, if
necessary, revoke certification for those manufacturers who violate established standards.

EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) law while stringent, does not cover cotton, a major gap in
addressing land pressure and human rights violations. Suggestions are made to expand its scope to
include cotton and improve enforcement.

Immediate action from Brazilian government is needed to reverse environmental policy setbacks and
enhance transparency in permitting processes.

It's crucial for ZARA and H&M to implement measures to ensure sustainable supply chains. This
means carefully selecting suppliers who align with the company's ethical and environmental goals. By
choosing responsible suppliers who prioritize sustainability, companies can not only mitigate their
environmental impact but also uphold their commitment to social responsibility. It's not just about
what's on the shelves; it's about the journey each product takes from conception to consumption.

Anyway, definitely keep an eye out for more updates on this scandal. It's a wild ride, and it's a good
reminder that we need to be way more mindful about where our clothes come from. Gotta keep these
brands accountable, you know?

For more detailed information:

Link to relevant investigation: Earthsight. Fashion Crimes: the European retail giants linked to dirty
Brazilian https://www.earthsight.org.uk/media/download/1790

Link to relevant video: Fashion Crimes: the European retail giants linked to dirty Brazilian cotton
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXtLmoKD1qg

Made on
Tilda